The morning of my 21st birthday I found myself sitting over a plate of fries at San Francisco International with my dad, feeling changed. All the accumulated feelings from the events, chaos, and turmoil of the recent past, good and bad, had finally found a moment of calm after months of high-paced life to burst out in a manifestation of a feeling so solemn that I'm sure my face did all the talking my mouth could have never done. All I can say is that it felt like the profoundness of the end of the beginning.
About an hour later I boarded a plane headed to Frankfurt, and then another one that landed about six hours later in Tehran. After eight years, I was back in my city of birth. Plenty of people have been away from their birthplaces for much longer than that, but at 21, eight years is well over a third of your life, and if you take into account the change a person goes through year by year between 13 and 21, to me it felt like going back to Iran after eight lifetimes.
It turns out that the feeling was largely justified. It was almost like a paranormal experience to see faces that hadn't changed a bit over a backdrop that had become virtually unrecognizable. How did all of this change, and why is no one else shocked but me?... I went there chasing a lot of my memories, and found that most of them were nowhere to be found. Instead I came back with a new understanding of change, for the better and for worse, and a contemplation that perhaps the only way to catch the elusive past is to grasp the present a little bit harder...
There is a lot I could say about Iran, but that will have to wait until the right words slowly come. Until then, there is certainly something to be said about the food...
The first meal I had in Iran was bread and cheese and what not at my grandma's when we got home from the airport at 3 or so in the morning. I went to bed for a short sleep after that and didn't get up til 4 in the afternoon. With that day essentially wasted I had to wait until the next morning before I could really go into the city. I went grocery shopping with my aunt:

It's funny that for all the modernization that you see in Iran you still won't really see people shopping in anything resembling a supermarket. It all still kind of looks like this:
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Now, before you let your mind run too far with thoughts of 'culture' and the 'non-corporate' and 'the little man,' please stop and consider that supermarkers were created for a reason: They are convenient. They are safe. They are clean (I can already hear some people scoffing at this one but if you have the balls to stick to your own standards I'd like to see you go to this market and then call the Safeway deli "horrifying"). Nobody smiles at you, and the little seller man will always try to rip you off. At least at the supermarket you and the guy next to you will buy your apples at the same price. In truth, markets like this are only cute to the people who have the privilege to not have to use them. But hey, I don't have to use them, so it was pretty cute and very touristy. However, all the fat women in black chadors will ram you over like blind people driving bulldozers. The crows, as I like to call them, have no shame, and they dislike you and judge you because you're not a crow like them. They will deliberately be condescending to you by getting into your personal space to show you who's boss. It is the Islamic Republic after all.
Somehow (and I mean, let's not say
somehow because the mechanism of word of mouth by which
all information indiscriminately shoots across my Iranian family world-wide is quite mathematical), word got into Iran that I was looking forward to having beets and turnips, the way you bought them steamed from the street vendors. As a result, not a day went by on my 18-or-so day trip that I wasn't offered beets and turnips, or wasn't asked why I wasn't eating beets or turnips. By the end I had both, and it was good. But I think people are still waiting for me to write a novel about it.
I knew going to Iran meant I was going to eat kabob. A lot. Probably 3 times. I couldn't have imagined that I'd have kabob something like 10 times! But man, it was mad delicious. One of the places we had kabob was at a roadside restaurant on the way to Kashan, where we sat on wooden beds covered by carpet to eat. Again, cute, but cramped. For the experience and laughs I wouldn't have changed a thing:


A roadside stand with dried fruit on the way to Kashan. We each bought about five pounds, then wondered why.
Another fantastic experience I got to have in Kashan was to visit these hundreds-of-years-old houses - mansions more like - and experience not only the ridiculous beauty but also a couple of things quite interesting:

One of the houses in Kashan. This is just one quarter of it, because it goes all the way around and this open space is the courtyard in the middle.

I must have been the only person in the group who was perfectly in love with this dungeon, because as it turns out, it's the refrigerator!
Also:
The water well |  The kitchen |
Back in Tehran I had the chance to go around town with my grandma, and one of the places we stopped by was this very classy little coffee shop in a mall. I'm always impressed by the level of style and effort that some people put into their businesses. I got a cappuccino there and it was delicious, plus it came with a complementary piece of chocolate. The owners of this cafe were two young brothers, and I was very impressed with them. Very quiet, cozy, stylish place, and it was obvious people enjoyed being there and being themselves.
My cappuccino |  This painting of a bazaar on the wall along with the wooden frame and the wooden tables really made the place. |
I told one of the owners that I have a food blog and promised to feature his cafe, and I gave the address to my site. Of course this post didn't go up until months later, so who knows if he'll ever see this.
I was in Tehran on December 21st, the night of the winter equinox, which is a sort of unofficial holiday in Iran called Yalda. By tradition certain things are eaten on and I got plenty made fun of for taking pictures of everything on the table.
Watermelon in the winer?... |  Nuts and seeds and dried fruit |
My grandma also cooked some Kookoo that night, which is a pan-cooked mixture of herbs and eggs, kind of like a quiche but with no crust. Then again, a lamer culinary comparison was never made...
1. Herbs, dill, stuff... |  2. Enter eggs. |
 3. Mix. |  4. In the pan with some oil, lid on, cook. |
My attempt at chronicling my grandma's cooking was hilarious because at the end of the night I forgot to take a picture of the finished product...Ha...
Child's play and Kookoo aside, one of the coolest experiences I got to have in Tehran (twice!) was to go to this traditional-style restaurant in a basement in an administrative side of town. This kabob and dizi restaurant was just a few steps away from my uncles office, and interestingly enough next door to the electronics store that used to be owned by my grandfather, which has now been turned into a bank. In all my years in Tehran I'd never seen my grandfather's store, so it was definitely a scentimental experience to be in that part of town. I imagined going back to my Iran after the death of my grandpa would be a harder experience than it actually turned out to be. I thought stepping into my grandparents' house would immediately trigger a rush of memories of him...The streets where he used to take me...The books he used to read me...His chair, the garden, the trees...But everything was so different that the memories didn't really come. When they did, it wasn't that emotional. I still don't know why.
Anyway, back to the dizi! Lamb, potatoes, beans, tomatoes, plenty of oil and fat, cooked in a stone pot. This stuff will have you feeling so dense you'll cancel your plans. Happily.
My dizi, yogurt, pickled vegetables, fresh herbs.
By far the best part of dizi is the technique employed in eating it. If you're a traditionalist, here's how you do it:
1. Break up your bread (sangak I think. look it up.) into bite-sized chunks and put them in the clean bowl they bring.
2. Pour some of the oil/broth from the stone pot on the bread and let it soak.
3. Eat soaked bread strategically: leave room for the meat.
4. There will be a chunk of fat in the pot called the 'donbeh'. Find it and put it in the bowl, and use the stone mallot/pestle thing they bring you to mash it into a paste.
5. Put the meat in the bowl along with however much potato, beans, tomato and broth you'd like, and mash it.
6. Eat with bread, yogurt, herbs, pickled vegetables, and doogh (yogurt drink).
In my excitement I bought a stone dizi pot in Esfahan. I've yet to use it...
Speaking of Esfahan:

Gelato! This cost me $1.50 in Esfahan
And if you thought the Kookoo story was over (you thought you could escape it), many nights later we reheated in Esfahan and I finally got a picture of it finished!

Fin!
Alright, so this next part was inevitable. If you're "one of us" (because we don't waste this stuff on people who are going to question it), you're not only probably going to eat this stuff on your trip to Iran, it will practically be pre-ordained. So true to code, one night at my aunt Azi's house my uncle got us some Sirab-Shirdoon (tripe).

I hadn't had this in a while, and to be honest, all my hours of watching Bizarre Foods wasn't making this any easier. Channeling Andrew Zimmern! Channeling Andrew Zimmern! Come on...1...2...3......ughhhhxvjbnsdk!!!!..
........................................
...............That was good!
This was a great demonstration of truly how psychological a thing eating is. Even though I genuinely enjoyed the taste, every spoonful was a struggle to the end.
About the last thing I got to take pictures of in Iran was Ladan bakery in Tehran, where we always went to get our pastries. This place is trendy as hell and crowded as shit and it
will ruin your stupid little diet so give it up.
Assortment of nuts, seeds and dried fruit |  Assortment of pastries and cakes. They taste better than they look |
 Assortment of cakes | |
Now here's my question to American bakeries: What the
hell are you doing? Cookies my ass. Grow up and bake something real...